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By Nicole Pensiero

I’ve always loved cruising – to me, it’s one of the most relaxing and glamorous ways to see the world. So, with one beautiful, new cruise ship, a seven-night journey to some of Europe’s most popular destinations -- and two friends in need of some serious relaxation – you have all the makings of a great winter vacation.

Traveling by sea through Europe at the start of the holiday season might not seem as appealing to some as, say, a balmy Caribbean cruise, to us it was ideal: less crowds, still mild weather, and even a few pop-up Christmas markets to enjoy along the way.

It’s no secret that the cruise industry was clobbered by the pandemic – pretty much shutting down for more than a year – but it has made a tremendous comeback since the summer of 2021. In fact, according to the 2022 State of the Cruise Industry Outlook, published by Cruise Lines International Association, nearly 80 percent of travelers who have cruised before say they will cruise again – the same percentage as before the pandemic. And in its baseline forecast, passenger volume is expected to recover and surpass 2019 levels by the end of this year. It’s easy to understand why: cruising is a great value, while offering unique cultural and dining experiences.

Our ship, the Viking Neptune, was less than a month old when we set sail in early December of last year. It’d been so long since I’d taken an ocean cruise – river cruising became a favorite thing over the past several years – that I’d forgotten a key point about why it is so popular: the ship itself is as much a part of the experience as the ports along the way.

Photo courtesy Viking Cruises

Our Trip

We were excited about the itinerary to some of the most alluring Mediterranean destinations in Italy, France and Spain, along with a stop in the tiny principality of Monaco. It was a glamorous and relaxing way to travel – obviously, a good part of cruising's allure. Basically, we sailed along the Mediterranean Sea, taking our five-star hotel with us. I’ve described the experience as a “tasting menu” of some of Europe’s finest destinations. You get a nice “taste” of each country, personalized to your own interests, as well as time to savor the ship’s many offerings, from gourmet restaurants to live entertainment.

Every cruise line is different, but Viking includes a shore excursion at every port for no additional charge; there are also an array of other optional excursions. We did a mix of included and add-on excursions during our trip, which also included one full day at sea.

Italy

Initially docked in Citavecchio, Italy – about an hour’s drive from Rome – we set sail and arrived the next morning in Livorno, greeted by glorious sunshine for our included excursion to nearby Pisa. There, we – like hundreds of other tourists from around the world – posed for silly and serious photos by the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
We were surprised to learn that this gorgeous bell tower started leaning during construction in the 12^th century due to soft ground that couldn’t support its weight. It has been shored up for stability in recent years.

The next day was an optional tour to Florence, where we had a free day to explore. Handed a map of the city center on the ride there, given some tips, then off we went. While the overcast weather eventually turned to rain, our spirits were high as we explored the Basilica of Santa Croce  – where we saw such wonders at the tomb of Galileo and St. Francis of Assisi’s robe -- the medieval Ponte Vecchio (“Old Bridge”), and the city’s winding cobblestone streets, lined with shops offering the finest in leather goods. There was even a nice sized Christmas market, where we picked up some gifts for family (and ourselves).

Monaco

Next up was Monaco, the second smallest country in the world (but one of the richest). Overlooking the port of Monte Carlo, the city’s centerpiece is the St. Nicholas Cathedral, where American Actress Grace Kelly became royalty in 1956, and where she is buried. We also had some free time to wander through the city’s quiet, and charming streets.

France

Our stop in France was to the country’s second largest city, Marseille. We had glorious sunshine yet again and the temperature actually reached 60 degrees – perfect for strolling along the waterfront, where we admired the World War I monument and enjoyed a cappuccino in a small café. There was another small Christmas market to explore, which was a great way to wind down our time there.

Spain

I felt like we’d saved the best for last when we arrived in beautiful Barcelona. Despite having visited the city more than once, I’d never been inside the city’s most famous architectural wonder, the still-unfinished Sagrada Familia. This towering cathedral has been under construction since 1882. Designed by Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926) -- whose works are at the heart of what makes Barcelona so memorable -- it is breathtaking, defying easy description. From there, it was on to the quirky and unique Park Guell, also designed by Gaudi. After our optional tour, we stayed downtown to explore the blocks-long pedestrian walkway known as La Rambla, home to many cafes, flower stands, and stores, including the popular food market, La Boqueria. No trip to Spain is complete without enjoying and order of Churros y Chocolat, best compared to funnel cake dipped in warm chocolate pudding. It was the perfect ending to our day in one of Spain’s most popular cities.

Churros y Chocolat on the Rambla in Barcelona

Our Ship

All Viking ocean ships are identical (just as their river ships are), something that is especially appealing to repeat travelers. Unlike some other cruise lines’ mega-ocean ships – which can carry more than 3,000 passengers – Viking’s ocean cruise ships hold 930 passengers (we had about 800 onboard for our sailing), which categorize them as “small ships.” That fact held special appeal to me as I’ve been trying to travel as safely as possible since the start of the pandemic. The beautiful, light-filled Scandinavian-styled ship offered plenty of public space to spread out and relax.

There were certain areas onboard that we grew very fond of, including the spacious Explorer’s Lounge, which provided a fantastic view from the front of the ship, and the “Living Room,” near the main atrium staircase, where a classical duo performed in the evenings. The ship’s theater hosted everything from educational presentations, as well as entertainment. Viking puts a strong emphasis on cultural enrichment, offering interesting programs, as well as port talks about the various destinations along the way.

We tried the many restaurants onboard. We especially enjoyed The World Café, a buffet restaurant, especially for breakfast, where we could get anything from freshly made omelets to yummy sticky buns.

The Restaurant – yes, that’s its name – offered full-service breakfast, lunch and dinner, often with destination-themed entrees and desserts. We savored a few gourmet meals there, as well as trying the two reservation-only specialty restaurants – Italian-themed Manfredi’s and The Chef’s Table, which has a revolving menu. All restaurants offer included wine and beer with lunch and dinner. We often took advantage of the ship’s elegant afternoon tea, offered daily in the ship’s Wintergarden.

The Ship's Wintergarden - Photo courtesy of Viking Cruises

We relaxed in the ship’s spa several times, especially enjoying the large Jacuzzi and its uniquely Nordic experience: the snow grotto, part of the Scandinavian bathing ritual that involves alternating between hot and cold. It was a fun and very unique experience.

Our cabin – like all Viking cruise ship cabins – had a veranda; there are no inside cabins. The round-the-clock room service, which had a surprisingly extensive menu, came in very handy on the mornings we had to be off the ship before 8 a.m. for an excursion. There are even self-service laundry rooms on board for passengers.

In this era of less-than-stellar customer service and staff shortages, the attention we received from staff – and the attention to detail -- was impressive. This is a cruise line that prides itself on customer service, along with the things that set it apart: no formal nights, no roving photographers, no casino, and kids (under the age of 18). The focus is clearly on cultural enrichment, not pool parties.

Is ‘Quiet Season’ Cruising for You?

Sailing the Mediterranean during the off-season that runs from November until the end of March – known in the cruising industry as the “Quiet Season” -- isn’t for everyone, especially if sunbathing by the pool is a priority. There are both indoor and outdoor pools, I should note.

But this particular time of year makes for an extremely laid-back and totally enjoyable experience. No long lines, no crowds and no potentially steamy weather to contend with. For us, it was the perfect way to sail into the winter months.

Nicole Pensiero is a South Jersey-based writer and a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association.